Further to part of yesterday's post, comes now Paul Hollander, in an
editorial published November 2, 2009 in
The Washington Post (H/T
Volokh) writes:
The Berlin Wall that came down 20 years ago this month was an apt symbol of communism. It represented a historically unprecedented effort to prevent people from "voting with their feet" and leaving a society they rejected.
[Snip]
Soviet communism collapsed for many reasons, including the economic inefficiency that resulted in chronic shortages of food and consumer goods, and pervasive and mendacious propaganda, which amounted to the routine misrepresentation of reality highlighting the gap between theory and practice, and promise and fulfillment.
[Snip]
The failure of Soviet communism confirms that humans motivated by lofty ideals are capable of inflicting great suffering with a clear conscience. But communism's collapse also suggests that under certain conditions people can tell the difference between right and wrong. The embrace and rejection of communism correspond to the spectrum of attitudes ranging from deluded and destructive idealism to the realization that human nature precludes utopian social arrangements and that the careful balancing of ends and means is the essential precondition of creating and preserving a decent society.
I was aware that during this month, we would mark the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. I knew it was the 9th, but as is my wont, I became distracted by other things this weekend, only to be reminded yesterday during my morning internet surfing.
It's hard to believe that are people who have no recollection of the existence of the Iron Curtain, a metaphor brought into existence during a
speech by Winston Churchill at an otherwise nondescript
liberal arts college in Fulton, Missouri. It some respects, I think that those of the younger generation, like my kids or my German nephew and niece, are perhaps the worse for it.
People forget how stunning, indeed unanticipated the opening of the Wall was. For those of us with long memories, we recall that Hungary opened it's border first, which caused a massive number of East Germans to decide to take a holiday to Budapest, following which they crossed the border to Austria and thence, to Germany. The East German government began being pressured to allow visits to the West and on this evening, 20 years ago, at about 5:00 PM, a spokesman stated that the borders would be open.
No one believed him.
After three hours or so, the first timid souls approached and were allowed through the checkpoints. Within minutes, it became a flood. By midnight, people were dancing on top of the wall and by morning the Iron Curtain was gone.
It's amazing how fast the idea of freedom takes hold. The EMBLOS mentioned last night, that the whole thing unfolded on television in Germany. In West Berlin an elderly woman said to her husband, *"Kurt, the Wall is open!" His response: "You're crazy."
As for my own memory, in 1985, I flew to Germany during the Christmas holiday to meet the EMBLOS' family for the first time. Among
other activities (
Do read the last link, even if you butt the rest of this post), I accompanied the EMBLOS and my future father-in-law on a day trip to Prague, the capital of what was then communist Czechoslovakia. Let me suggest, dear reader, that that single excursion disabused me forever of any sympathies I might have toward collective utopias established by governmental fiat, under circumstances where those governed are repressed in the name of the commonweal.
I should note here, that the Official In-Laws To Be had a weekend condo a few kilometers from the Czech border. We'd payed a couple of visits to the border for purposes of skiing at a little town called "
Bayerisch Eisenstein," one of those obligingly quaint and picturesque towns that dot the Bavarian countryside. There, we'd skied on a slope which literally abutted the border, which was marked on the German side with blue and white barber poles and a split-rail fence. We'd also gone into town for lunch and visited the local train station, which, due to the boundary adjustments made following World War Two, was divided in half by the border. A more recent view of same is here:
Note the sign, "Staatgrenze" and the blue and white pole. The photographer is in Germany. The person in the center is standing in the Czech Republic.
Note also, the absence of people with guns.When I visited, that area was completely walled up.
Anyway, a day or so later, we crossed the border on a German tour bus and made our way to Prague. Immediately across the border there was a delay as the bus had to be emptied and searched, the totalitarian functionaries conducting a complete inventory lest we be secretly smuggling Levis jeans or copies of the Declaration of Independence.
Following that, we were ushered into a building where we were required to exchange one hundred, perfectly good German marks for it's nominal equivalent in Czech Crowns, which were suitable for lining bird cages, inasmuch as there was nothing to buy where we were headed and the Czechs wouldn't allow you to change the money back into German currency when you left.
Then, finally, mercifully, we were on the way to Prague.
Perhaps it was the fact that it was a gloomy day, but as we walked around the old city accompanied by the obligatory governmental handlers, I couldn't help but notice the ubiquitous cameras at every intersection, panning the crowds. Perhaps that's why no one smiled, even though it was the holiday season. As we would walk, people would brush past us and whisper "Geld wechseln?" One, who either had a very good eye or was one of the secret police about which we'd been warned in advance, asked me the previous question in English: "Change money?"
Otherwise, Prague is an interesting city and were it not for the fact that I was constantly on guard against doing something which would cause me to run afoul of the secret police which we had been assured would be tailing our group, I would have enjoyed it.
The real fun, however, came when we attempted to leave the country late that night. As we approached the border near the town of
Železná Ruda, the checkpoints became more frequent and the inspections more intrusive, until we finally rounded a bend to be illuminated in what seemed to be thousands of spotlights. There, in front of us was a massive steel barricade blocking the road which I doubt even a tank could breach. No danger of anyone crashing through the border in an attempt to reach freedom.
Anyway, we were ordered off the bus, without our coats and told to stand on a platform while, yet again, a complete search of the bus and contents, including our personal effects was conducted.
A Czech soldier armed with the obligatory AK-47 and surly demeanor confiscated our passports and disappeared for half and hour while we waited in twenty degree cold. When he reappeared, he began to call the names of the tourists, handing each his/her passport in turn and allowing them back onto the bus.
I should note, in 1985, West German passports were green. American passports were navy blue as they've been for a some time. Given that I was the only American citizen on this little excursion, my passport was easily visible in the pile of about 40 or so the soldier was holding.
The soldier came to my passport about a third of the way through and studied for a moment before putting it back into the stack. Again it rose to the top and more people were allowed on the bus, and again, he stuck it back in the stack. One more time this occurred, until your humble correspondent was the lone person on the platform. The soldier, yet again, studied for a few moments before saying in very precise, if accented English:
"Meeester Sheermaan."
Then, he proceeded to look around the platform for fifteen seconds or so, as if there might be another R. Sherman somewhere. I tentatively raised my hand. He stared me in the eye for a few seconds before flipping my passport at me, which hit me in the chest and fell to the ground, necessitating that I bend over to pick it up. I'm not ashamed to say, that as I did so, the thought of having a rifle butt smack me in the head crossed my mind.
Of course that didn't happen, but when I stood up to get on the bus, I noticed that the border guard was smiling, and it wasn't one of those "thanks for visiting and come back soon" sort of smiles, but one of the most malevolent expressions I've ever seen. Suffice it to say, I vowed never to return behind the Iron Curtain as long as it existed.*
Perhaps the above experience is why I've been rather cranky lately about the increasing government encroachment on our personal autonomy on numerous fronts.
I've seen what the end result looks like. It most definitely made an impression.
Cheers.
R. Sherman
Pre-publishing Update: Germany's left-of-center news magazine
Der Spiegel notes our President's participation in the commemoration events, as does the U.K.'s right-of-center
Telegraph.
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*
I went back in 1990, post Iron Curtain, and skied at a mountain called Špicák, near where I'd crossed the border. All the roadblocks and such from 1985 at that particular crossing point were gone and both the egress and ingress from/to Germany was accomplished with an official, perfunctory wave of the hand from the smiling Czech border guard, who, by the way, was unarmed, this time.
Further, it was a much nicer smile, so I refrained from giving him an earful.
The only downside was that the ski area still hadn't replaced the communist era tow-lift, which consisted of a fish-hook type seating arrangement which one had to straddle in order to ride to the top. Further the machinery involved was prone to numerous starts and stops which, in turn, caused the bar I was straddling to jerk upwards with frightening force, as I later explained to the EMBLOS, when she inquired about my newfound ability to hit notes in the soprano range. I called it "Gorbachev's Revenge." (Why Ronald Reagan didn't add the words, "and get some decent ski lifts" to his "Tear Down This Wall" speech is not clear to me.) Thank the ski gods, by 1991, the Czechs had finally thrown off the last vestiges of communism and obtained Austrian T-bar lifts which are much easier on the anatomy. --RDS